Sometimes sniping the other team gets preoccupied with taking you out beyond all other targets - its a great sign that you're doing well, but it can spell disaster for the rest of the day. You have to behave a little differently to snipe successfully when the other team is actively trying to find you, and has you on their mind. These are some tips that might help:

1) Choice of cover: When there is an obviously excellent piece of cover, a fallen log, etc, pick something else where you can cover the obvious spot. If they're looking for you, they'll try to think like you, and figure out the best spot *they* would snipe from - meaning every-time they see a fallen log they'll pay it allot of extra attention, and give less attention to things in its vicinity. Don't bother with "hard cover" which would protect you from BBs, its obvious, and when the enemy are sweeping for you, they'll pin your behind it and flank you. Pick somewhere in-obvious, preferably overshadowed by something really obvious. Its allot of fun to watch people advance on what they think your position is, and advance *right past you*.

2) Choice of camouflage: A) Don't put your ghillie suit on in sight of the other team. Wear simple BDUs and keep it in a bag, put it on when your out of sight - don't let them know what they should be looking for! B) Additionally, once they've hit you a few times, change to a different pattern ghillie, or change to BDUs, don't let your ghillie become a liability as you get "field famous" - you can use it as bait as well, later into the game.

3) Choice of tactics: Instead of lone-wolfing it, or going it with just your spotter, try moving 100-200 ft behind a large group of teammates, when they engage they'll have the enemies full attention, fall back and try to flank the battle. Alternatively, keep track of where your team is, get yourself "spotted" with an amateurish shot, etc, and fall back to the group as bait.

4) Choice of weapons: If you've got something support-esque, or at least full-auto switch to that and ghillie-wrap it so that it isn't obvious. If you've been going bolt action in the rest of the game, when the enemy spots you they'll focus on closing the distance as fast as possible, and be unprepared for you to hit back with similar firepower.

Good luck! Sniping when everyone on the other team wants a piece of you is harder, more exciting, and you can take your infamy as a compliment.

The following information came from Games of War. I take no credit for this work. Although it was not originally written for airsoft, many of the tactics still apply.

Small Unit Tactics


COMMUNICATIONS

Any time there is contact with the enemy, either accidental or deliberate, the first man to make the sighting generally has to make a snap decision and give a signal.

These signals can be made in a lot of ways. One possibility includes voice, especially for things like "Incoming!" and "Sniper!" where it doesn't matter how much noise you make. Prearranged hand signals are the most common signals. Using a radio or a flashlight is also common.

Every soldier should understand how to react to the following signals.

Freeze: Everybody hold your position. All the soldiers should stay quiet and motionless. It usually means that the Point Man (or whoever made the signal) suspects that something is wrong and is still gathering information.

Hasty Ambush: Means "we're going to ambush the enemy". Usually made when the enemy looks vulnerable and when they seem to be heading toward the group. The soldiers should immediately take concealed firing positions.

Attack! or Immediate Assault: Not the kind of thing you do every day! For sme reason, everybody should charge with weapons blazing. For example, if the group comes on the rear of an enemy position, or if another friendly unit needs immediate help. Also used on raids. Whoever gives the signal had better have a **** good reason.

Fall back: This means to start an orderly, guarded retreat. Usually done with the leapfrog method where one or two men at a time go back down the trail while the others stand guard. When the operation is complete the whole group should be back in their usual marching order, but heading in the oppposite direction.

Ambush: Or, to put it another way, RUN! It means that the group is in immediate danger of being in an enemy ambush.

Incoming: Means "TAKE COVER!" Some kind of indirect fire, like a mortar or an artillery shell, is coming into the group. Everybody should hit the dirt, scatter or find cover immediately.

Sniper: Reacting to a single sniper is a little different than reacting to an ambush. The entire group should open fire on the sniper's position. This may or may not kill the enemy, but it'll suppress his fire for the moment.





OFFENSIVE WARFARE

1. Fire distribution is the science of controlling weapon power. Here's a few of the more popular possibilites:

Point Fire is when you're aiming at a particular target. For example, you might tell everyone to concentrate Point Fire on the enemy machinegun operator.

Area Fire means aiming at any available targets in a particular area.

Suppressive Fire means you're trying to get the enemy to keep his head down. This is the kind of shooting you do when somebody yells, "Cover me!"

Grazing Fire is usually a straight, horizontal line laid down by machineguns. The idea is to continuously draw a line of bullets about 3 feet off the ground. That way, even if you can't see the enemy, you have a pretty good chance of hitting. Usually used then the enemy is charging toward you.

Frontal, Flanking or Enfilade Fire: These are just terms describing how your shots are hitting the enemy. Frontal fire is when you're facing each other. Flanking fire means firing at the enemy's side, like shooting down at a party on a trail. Enfilade firing is the best kind because it means you are shooting through a column or row of the enemy.

A good use of enfilade fire is to set up an ambush so a machinegun is pointed down the length of a trail. Once the enemy group is stung out along that section oyu can open fire with a much better chance of hitting the target, and have the chance of hitting more than one target with each bullet.

2. Preparing the ambush means picking a place where you have a good view of the enemy, yet are concealed and under cover.

Kill Zone is the area where you plan on shooting the enemy. It should be a place with limited or no cover, limited escape routes, and little or no opportunity for the enemy to return fire.

Dead Spaces are areas out of sight of the ambushers. For example, a group on a hill may have a good view of the trail, but may not be able to see into a gully right below them. These areas should be booby trapped or targeted for accurate grenade fire.

Claymores, mines and mortars are effective ways of killing, but they lack a little... discretion. Booby traps are non-discrimating; if there are friendly forces or civilian in the area, it's best to set up flare traps - that way you can get a good look at the victims before you kill them.

3. Dividing your forces according to their jobs is always a good idea, even in a four-man team.

Assault Element is the unit responsible for the main attack. In an ambush, they would be assigned different firing areas in the kill zone.

Support Element is a back-up or reserve unit. In an ambush the Suppport Element is often set along possible escape routes so the enemy will be trapped.

Security Elements have the responsibility for keeping everyone else safe. For example, if a unit had set up an ambush on a hill, the Security Element will patrol the back and sides of the hill to prevent a rear or flank attack.

4. Concealment and Camouflage are useful in any kind of combat. The more difficult it is for the enemy tosee you, the more difficult it is for him to shoot you.

Natural Concealment is anything that hides you from the enemy's sight. Bushes, grass, trees, geological formations and shadows are all effective.

Camouflage is basically artificial concealment. Usually it involves clothing and equipment with the same colors as the natural environment. Irregular shapes of color sre the hardest to see. Adding make-up to exposed skin, and attaching leaves and branches to helmet and clothing are also good forms of camouflage.

STRATEGY AND TACTICS: THE BASICS

What follows is sort of a "Reader's Digest Condensed Version" of the principles of warfare. If there is any such thing as a "Law of War" then it's probably hidden in the following list. Remember, these are general guidelines, and in war there is nothing certain.

1. Maintain the Objective: Every military operation must be directed toward a decisive, obtainable objective. In other words, if you can't describe the outcome you want, then you shouldn't be getting into the battle. A lot of folks would say that the lack of an objective was the main flaw in America's policies in Vietnam.

Having a stated objective that's known by the soldiers in an action is critical for them to be able to respond to changing conditions. Having the initiative to take advantage of a sudden enemy weakness, or to retreat in the face of an unexpected enemy strength, depends on everybody knowing the overall plan.

2. Watch you Concentrations: In ancient warfare everything was concentrated, because the armies were literally shoulder to shoulder. Modern weaponry makes dispersion essential. A single grenade or machinegun can kill crowds easily. As a general rule, everybody in Vietnam kept at least 5 yards apart at all times. The first limit to this dispersion is communications, you've got to keep close enough so that you can work as a team.

The second limit to dispersion is the need to concentrate attack power. The reason the ancient soldiers massed together was to concentrate their offensive power. In modern times, with long distance weapons, attack can be concentrated while the attackers remain dispersed. So units have to stay close enough to be able to coordinate and concentrate their weapons on a single target.

3. Be Prepared to Maneuver: Consider the brilliance of you enemy. Attack him with a superior force and he will break into pieces and melt away. Present him with a weak defense and he will form up a superior force and wipe you out. Forces must be organized so they can move quickly, both to attack and retreat.

Another aspect to maneuvering troops is maintaining a reserve. No matter how desperate a situation may look, it's vital to maintain a separate reserve that can respond to changing conditions.

4. Knowledge is Power: A small army with a good intelligence network is worth a lot more than a large army that's kept in the dark. The flip side of the intelligence issue is security. Always make it as difficult as possible for the enemy to get any information on your activities.

5. Watch the Multipliers: The following formulas are ridiculously simplistic. Still, they may be valuable as general guidelines.

a. It costs twice as much to attack as to defend. History records that the attacker, even when wildly successful, loses a lot more men than the defender.

b. Attacking the enemy's flank, or rear attack, is twice as effective as attacking him in the front. Frontal assaults look good in the movies, scare the hell out of the enemy, and usually result in the virtual destruction of the attacking force.

c. Surprise doubles the effectiveness of any attack. Anytime you do something predictable your chances of getting wiped out are doubled.

d. Defense strength is directly proportional to fortification strength. In other words, holes, bunkers, and trenches can easily double the number of survivors in an attack.

1.Be patient, wait for the enemy to come to you

2.Never underestimate your enemy!

3.A successful sniper kill requires complete calm of spirit and silence, don't even whisper yes when you get that FIRST guy because that second guy will always pop out and hit you right between the eyes.

4.Don't hesitate, if you have a clean shot take it! If you hesitate your enemy won’t.

5.If they fire don't just sit there like a vegetable getting ready to get picked off. Move quickly and use distractions and cover to elude your enemies and find a new place to camp.

6.Think before shooting, that guy in the bush could be your friend.

7.Keep control of your breathing, don’t breathe to fast, or to slow.

8.Check your surroundings, make sure no one will sneak up on you.

9.Focus on the entire “picture”, don’t get so into your potential victim that others come up behind and take you out.

10.Pay attention to your surroundings.

11.Be aware of everything going on around you, if you know your team mate is trying to flank the enemy on the right, support and keep them pre-occupied.

12.Distort your shadow, if you see a person-shaped shadow you’d shoot at it, right?


Give me some comments, and if I missed anything tell me.

The Science of the Side Arm, Why the side arm DOES matter

We all understand what the side arm is: that last resort weapon, most of the time being a pistol, that’s ready at your side in the event your primary weapon runs out of ammo during a firefight, becomes inoperable, or for some other reason you cannot use your primary weapon. They are normally easy to access, whether in a holster, leg holster, in an easy-to-reach pouch, pocket, wherever.

Most people glance the side arm as that extra luggage. You only bring it “because you might need it.” Well I’m writing to tell you, that’s not true.

Why do you need one?
Unless you’re paying hundreds if not thousands of dollars for your AEG or other primary gun, we can all agree at some point during some game or just playing around out-back, your gun has malfunctioned. The battery ran out, the motor jammed, the bb’s are jammed, a part just falls off the gun (has happened to me before, LOL), something either has or will happen. What do you do?

If you’re in the middle of a firefight, you can’t really do anything without being at risk. If a quick push of the forward-assist knob doesn’t clear the gun (typical on the M4’s and M16’s), you’re basically screwed. Everyone agrees battery changes aren’t very quick and easy.

You’re only other option is to get another gun! This gun should be your side arm. For some, it’s a secondary AEG or shotgun of some sort slung on your back. While not very practical nor mobile, it definitely gives the option of secondary firepower (and lots of it). Most people don’t do this, simply because it’s more weight and more immobility. The side arm is easy to reach, normally in a holster (whether it be leg or belt, this will be discussed later).


Pay attention to your gun
Most people glance over the side arm as one more piece of equipment; this is something you CANNOT DO. The side arm is typically, not always, your last resort (also talked about later) during a firefight, and if it’s looked over with no care, it may not work at all, leaving you a sitting duck with no weapons.
A good rule of thumb is to upgrade your pistol as much as you can. Have multiple, at least 2, standard magazines and have them at the ready. Carry a small amount of ammo for your side arm (for example, if you’re AEG shoots .2g like it should, you should bring ~100 rounds of .12 for your pistol). Make sure your pistol is lubed and working (fire about 5 rounds before game to confirm) and all is top-shape. This will ensure your last line of defense is not your downfall.

Why do I say last line of defense? While pistols do lack the all out stopping power of an AEG on full out, they’re still there when that power is gone. If you’re being advanced on and your main goes down, whip out the side arm to open fire that much more. It may be that simple move that saves you and possibly the game if you score a hit. And if you don’t, and you’ve been hit yourself? You tried.

Keep your pistol at the ready
Preferably, keep your pistol in a leg-holster. These handy holsters strap around your outer thigh and then up through your belt. Basically, it forms an upside-down “T”. This not only stabilizes the gun so it stays on, it’s also a lot easier to reach for compared to a regular belt holster. They’re typically only a few dollars more than a belt holster, and in my opinion, a lot more convenient. They’re easier to reach in a crouching and in a running position.

Use your side arm constantly
Whether it be a few shots per game, or a few shots in the backyard, continue using and firing your gun so that you remember your “zone” for the gun. Try target shooting with the sights, try shooting and reloading as fast as you can, just drill drill drill. You’ll need the experience when you have no other choice.

Otherwise, this entire guide is pretty straight forward. The side arm is your last resort, so don’t skip over it. Treat it as you would your AEG

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